The bottom and top are paired ground and power. (You can also find them at GameStop for about $7 - $15) The green connector is the input power. I didn't trust the cheap power supply that came with the printer so I've been using the 203W Xbox 360 power supply I found at Goodwill for $3.99. If you want to use the same power supply you can also cut the connector and splice in some longer wires to the ramps board. I also left the yellow labels to help know which is which. Be sure to splice in some wire with the same gauge or higher if you do that. I needed to extend the wires of the heated bed as well. The top is the hot end, the middle is the fan, and the bottom is the bed. I clipped the connectors off of the fan, heated bed, and the hotend cartridge and they get wired on the blue bus connectors. The A4988 potentiometer faces away from the potentiometer and with the DRV8825 they face towards the power supply. We will use this later to limit the current to the motors. There is a variable resistor on the drivers (potentiometer). For the A4988 drivers you need all 3 jumpers in for 1/16th steps, and for the DRV8825 stepper drivers I used just the 3rd jumper is set for 1/16th steps. The jumpers are numbered 123 from left to right when the blue and green connectors are on the left. The jumpers are located under the where the stepper drivers go. Depending on which stepper drivers you picked or got with your kit you will need to adjust the jumpers. You can see how much smaller the raft for the cat print was before I fixed the jumper settings for my DRV8825 stepper drivers.īy trial and error I've determined that the Monoprice board had the steps set to 1/16th steps. If you don't set them to match the Monoprice stepper motors you will get scaled prints. The steps are configurable on the ramps board with jumpers. The A thermistor is the hotend thermistor and goes to T0, the B thermistor is the bed thermistor and goes to T1. The thermistors on my board are wired T0 T1 T2. So you will be wiring just the top 2 pins for your endstops. The ramps boards supports powered 3 pin normally closed endstops but the Monoprice uses normally open 2 wire endstops. The Monoprice printer only has origin endstops so you will want to put the X,Y,Z endstops at the 1st, 3rd, and 5th positions on the ramps board. They are arranged on the ramps boards as X-Origin, X-End, Y-Origin, Y-Origin, Y-End, Z-Origin, Z-End. The ramps board can support having and endstop at the origin and the end of the run. Using the longer wires also had the advantage of extending the board out so I can figure out a way to mount it next to the printer. I used some shrink wrap tubing () to keep everything looking nice. I retained the yellow cable labels and used the same colors for the wires. I clipped the connectors off and soldered in some breadboard connectors I had from other projects (). I was able to use the existing connectors on the stepper motors but things were too cramped for the connectors on the endstops and the thermistors. The spacing of the headers on the ramps board matches the spacing of the holes in the connectors for the Monoprice controller. Step 2: Wiring the Endstops and Thermistors Marlin compatible LCD Display (128 x 64 Dot matrix with SD Card reader built in) ().These are the basic parts you need to do this project: You can find many people selling the parts you need in a single kit in the $30 - $40 dollar range on Amazon () or Ebay and if you part out the individual pieces you need on places like you can often get it for even less but you will wait since most of these will be shipped to you via China Post. The configuration in Marlin is well documented and easy to update. Marlin is an open source firmware that is easily compiled and deployed to an Arduino compatible board. I decided to buy the parts and see if I could set Marlin up to talk to the Monoprice's existing hardware. Many of the kit 3D printers use Marlin on the Arduino Mega and a Ramps 1.4 board to control them.
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